Havasupai June 2006

The scoutmaster had told all of us to be at the church by 9 PM on Tuesday June 20. I arrived 10 minutes early as I usually do and most of the scouts arrived shortly thereafter. We were supposed to leave the church parking lot by 9:30 but the scoutmaster didn't arrive until 9:45.

I had spent the last few days packing for the trip. My last trip I packed about 35 pounds down and was pretty sore, so I was going for 25 this trip. I switched from a standard tent to a "hammock tent" which really is just a hammock with some netting on it and a rainfly if you need it. It weighs about 1 pound (I borrowed this from one of my coworkers). I stuck with all basic and light food (freeze-dried, etc.). I only brought one change of clothes (we would be there for 4 or 5 days). In the end I was a little scared of being too cold, which sounds funny, so I added a blanket and pillow at the last minute which probably added a couple of pounds. In the end I think the pack (which I borrowed from Tevia's dad) along with my camelback weighed around 25 pounds. Right on target.

We had 12 boys and 6 adults. We drove up in 4 cars and left about 10 PM. I rode up with our ex-bishop and some boys and we listened to some church talk on the way up (I don't think the kids were too happy with this selection - nor was I as I thought some music might keep us awake). We arrived in Flagstaff a couple of hours later and stopped for bathroom breaks and snacks. We finally arrived at the top of Havasupai trail at just before 4 AM on Wednesday June 21. We put on our bags and began the 10 mile descent to the campground. I had a headlamp to hike in the dark as did most of the boys. This was a last minute decision that I was extremely happy about as holding a flashlight for hours while hiking can get tiring (according to those with flashlights).

Like most troops we were not very organized. A few of the boys started running down the switchbacks (make up the first mile or so of the hike) and I tried to stay close to keep an adult around. We ended up being so quick that by the time I got to the bottom I was out of range of the adults/scouts behind us. But it all worked out fine. The sun began to show its light around 5 and showed the beauty of the canyon. This was definitely a disadvantage of hiking in the dark as many missed the beauty of the top of the canyon. But in the end I think it was a good idea.

My last trip I believe it took us over 4 hours to get to the village (Supai) where you register. The campground is an additional 2 miles from there. I was able to get to the village in under 3 hours on the way down and was the first adult down. I was amazed at this and attribute it to the fact that by not being in the heat of the day (when the sun is up) made a huge difference in energy levels. The village was out of electricity as their transformer had broke the week before so their restaurant and hotel were closed. But the local store had a backup generator so I bought a "cool" cherry limeade soda I had never seen before. We then registered our group and I went down with a few to get the campsite while the others filtered in. By 9 AM I was in camp and set up. The last group of boys/adults strolled in around 11 or so - meaning it took them 7 hours to get down. Not counting the hour I waited in the village, it took me four. I wasn't nearly as sore as my last trip. Moslty my calves hurt, but my shoulders and feet were in great shape. And considering I hadn't slept since 6 AM the previous day, I was quite happy with myself.

Most of the scouts and adults were pretty sore - but some of us went up to the Havasupai Falls which you pass on the way down. These falls are spectacular. I remember seeing them the first time down with Tevia and seeing them was literally breathtaking. They did not disappoint this time, either. The clear, blue-tinged water was refreshingly cool and did wonders to sore muscles and sweat-stained skin. I took a few boys to swim behind the waterfall and jump in through the waterfall. The rest of the day we spent relaxing and by 6 PM most of the boys and adults were asleep. I finally went to bed around 9 in my hammock tent. It was great.

The beauty of the area is hard to explain. Imagine a desert surrounding with blue, blue water running in the middle of it. The water gives way to lush greenery in a canyon with walls hundreds of feet high. It is unlike anything you can imagine. If it were not so difficult to get to, I think it would be one of the most-visited campgrounds in the USA. The temperature during the day can get up to 105, but near the river (where all of the campsites are) it probably stays near 85 with a cool breeze and some nice humidity.

It was packed with people. They say they only allow 100 people down at a time, but there were well over 200 people there this week. At least 3 times as many as last time I went down. This was a little disappointing, but it actually isn't that bad since the sound of the waterfalls and stream and wind drown out a lot of the sound. At night you wouldn't even know people were around.

Thursday we woke up and headed down to Mooney Falls. These falls are higher (maybe 300 feet?) and the trail to get to them is fun - dotted with caves to crawl through and some areas that were scarey to people not accustomed to rock climbing or "scrambling." For someone like me it is fun and I love it. I was wearing my Teva sandals (which I wore last time I was there) which are good because they fit tight and can be used in the water. The bottom of the river is filled with jagged rocks, so going barefoot can be hard. Half way down the caves and rock walls I realized the soles to my sandals were falling off. By the time I got to the bottom both soles were gone and all that was left was the insole strapped to my feet. At the bottom the mist from the waterfall just sprays out and the falls are beautiful against the red rock. By this time I felt almost 100% we spent a lot of time swimming in the cold water. At these falls I took some boys out and, though you couldn't go behind, you could get close and then climb up about 15 feet and jump off. To get close to the falls you have to really fight the current. It is pretty amazing as you are being pushed back by the current and above you are being pushed back by wind and spray that literally hurts it is coming so fast. It was a lot of fun.

We hiked back for lunch and after lunch went back to Havasupai Falls. Since my sandals were really not much good any more, I went in bare feet. I figured I would just walk around and sit in the pools, etc. But when I saw some guys climbing up a section of the cliff near/behind the falls, I was tempted to join them. When I saw one guy doing it with no shoes, I couldn't resist. I swam out and attempted the climb up about 20 feet to jump in off the cliff. The climb was tough without shoes. In fact, I fell twice (not from very high) when my feet just didn't have the grip on the moss-covered rock. One of the scouts also fell from a little higher and hit his face on the way down. But he was okay and so was I. Nothing more than bruises and cuts. I eventually made it up and jumped in. My feet now hurt quite a bit, so I was worried about climbing back out of the canyon, but I knew I didn't have to worry about that for some time.

My food was all great. Each meal was basic and delicious. Most of the boys lived off of ramen or easy mac. We had a devotional that night and talked about what we would have done different now that we were down in the canyon. Most boys said they would have brought hammocks and different food.

There was also something new this time in the canyon. Some of the native americans sold some basic food down by the camp. I don't know if this is common now, but it was tempting to buy a hot dog or some fry bread or navajo tacos (though they called them "Indian Tacos" as they are not of the Navajo tribe). I didn't buy anything since I am cheap - but many of the others did and they said it was great.

Friday morning we decided to hike down to Beaver Falls. Our YM president said it was only a couple of miles from camp. Unfortunately it was more like 5 miles each way through some pretty tough climbing and trails. There were large sections which were amazing like going through a mile field of grape vines. Seeing a valley full of lush grape vines in a desert canyon was amazing. The trail was continually getting grown over so your legs would get torn up by the vines. We eventually made it and the boys did some cliff jumping (which I avoided at Tevia's request). Because it was further than expected, not all of us were prepared. On the hike out the boys I was with ran out of water and most were hiking in water socks. By the time I got back to camp I was sore again. I felt even more sore knowing that we were now going to leave that night back to the car. That would mean I hiked 10 miles that day and by the next morning I would have hiked another 10 miles. I admit I wasn't looking forward to it.

We decided to split into three groups for the hike out. A few had to leave at 6 PM on Friday night as one boy had to be back in town Saturday morning. We then had a slow group which was to leave at midnight and the fast group would leave at 2 AM. I didn't sleep much that night so I decided to go with the slow group as I was worried about them. I'm glad I did as I think without my motivation they would have taken over 10 hours to get out. By 6 AM we arrived at the switchbacks. So it took us 6 hours to go about 8 or 9 miles. A few of the boys with me were out of water (so I gave them mine) and the adult with me looked about dead. By this time the fast group caught up to us. Having gone with the slow group I realized how going slow is much worse. Sure, going fast might give you muscle aches or something, but you are only having a pack on for a few hours. Hiking in sand and rock for 6 hours with a pack is merciless. So though I am glad I went with the slow group for motivation, I definitely would rather have gone with the fast group.

With just over a mile left and two thousand feet to ascend and having the other group caught up to us, I abandoned the slow group and dashed to the top. I had promised any boy that could beat me to the top that I would take them to Dairy Queen. This was meant to motivate the slow boys, but it motivated the wrong group. At this point my knee was killing me. I have never had knee problems in my life, but each step felt painful. Hopefully it isn't bad. But I didn't care and began the ascent without looking up to avoid that awful feeling of "impossible." I made it up in less than 30 minutes and was the first to the top of our two groups. The sun, though having been providing light for hours now, was still not "up" over the canyon. This was a great thing as you do not want to have to ascend the switchbacks in sun. It was now just before 7 AM, so it had taken me almost 7 hours to get out (compared to 4 in). I was exhausted and in pain, but very happy. A few boys filtered in and those of us at the top clapped and congratulated each boy. A few lagged behind and some had to go down and get their packs and come back up. There were some great acts of service. But by 8 AM all of us had made it out - the last ones taking over 8 hours to get out. I found out later that the group that left at 6 PM the previous day took over 10 hours to get out. We were only a few hours behind them even though they left so much earlier.

It was a wonderful trip with great memories and fantastic scenery. I love it down there. As I now decide whether to plan a trip down in August with family and friends, I hope this gives them a good idea on what to be expecting. It was probably the most dirty I have been in years; the most sore I have been in years; and some of the most beautiful scenery I have seen. Saturday night I was feeling good. All that hurts now is my knee, and it has improved dramatically. Definitely I wasn't as sore as last time. I attribute this to training (more hikes to get ready this time), a lighter pack and hiking at night.

Tomorrow I go back to reality - but in fact reality was Havasupai. We are so blessed with technology and money that life has evolved away from the simplicity which it once was. Trips like this help me to remember that there is so much more to life than work and money. Indeed, they matter so little.